Hala only designs, tests, and sells inflatable boards. We began in 2011 with the idea of making the best, most durable, well-designed inflatable on the market and have been pushing the envelope ever since. CHECK OUT OUR VIDEO HERE.

Absolutely. The stability-first philosophy Hala was founded on means boards like the HOSS give new paddlers a wide, confident platform from day one, and the lineup grows with you all the way to Class IV whitewater. Not sure where to start? Take our BOARD FINDER QUIZ.

Yes! We use the most durable 6” drop stitch material available, with welded seams and Fusion construction. Our RIVER BOARDS add extra reinforcement for rocky, shallow water, and every Hala board is backed by our industry-leading 5-year warranty. Learn more about HOW WE BUILD OUR BOARDS.

Our current 6” thick boards are built to carry serious loads. The Atcha 96, for example, is rated for 325+ lbs of paddler and gear. Check the specs section on each board's product page for its exact capacity.

Every current Hala board uses thick Fusion drop-stitch construction with welded seams. Our Charge and Adventure Series boards add a PVC stringer for extra stiffness in whitewater, while the Cruise Series uses lightweight woven drop-stitch for easy carrying and quick fun on flatwater. Read the full breakdown on our CONSTRUCTION PAGE.

Board weight varies with length, width, and construction type. Most current Hala boards weigh in the mid-20s (pounds), with our lightweight woven Cruise Series boards on the lower end. Complete kits (board, rolling backpack, pump, and repair kit) ship between roughly 26 and 40 lbs depending on the model.

Since we use thicker drop stitch (which is more rigid at lower pressure), 12 PSI will be just fine. 15 PSI is really great though, so shoot for that. You can pump your board to 18 PSI if you're up for the challenge, though we find the extra 3 PSI not to be worth the effort.

Inflation using our DUAL-ACTION HAND PUMP takes about 10-15 minutes of steady pumping. CHECK OUT OUR VIDEO HERE.

Yes, all of our boards roll up when deflated and fit into their corresponding travel bag. CHECK OUT OUR VIDEO HERE.

First, make sure all air is out of the chamber. You can do this by letting the board fully deflate on its own over a 10 minute period, then hook your hand pump hose up to the valve with the valve in the inflate (pin up) position. Screw the other end of the hose onto the opposite side of the pump that you use to inflate the board (the side that sucks air in as you move the plunger). Then, use your hand pump to suck all remaining air out of the board.

Now you are ready to roll. Start at the back of the board, rolling deckpad-side in towards the nose of the board. You will have to deal with the center fin box right away as you roll. Try to get a crease for your roll on either end of the center fin box to keep your roll tight. Next, you'll have to deal with the side bite fins. You'll want to be careful how tight you roll those fins - try to keep them from bending (though you can fix them with a hairdryer if you discover they are bent next time you take the board out). The end of them will be touching the deckpad as you roll.

Once you have dealt with the fins in the first two or three rolls of your board, rolling the rest is pretty straightforward. Do what you can to keep the roll as tight as possible, and roll deckpad in towards the nose. Use the provided D-ring strap to secure the board roll once you have it fully rolled up.

The board will fit best in the bag if you put it in on its flat side (the side of the roll opposite where the nose curls around) while the bag is sitting on its back. Use the strap built into the back of the bag to secure it in the bag, then pull the sides up around the board roll and flip the front panel over the board. Use the compression straps on either side of the bag to cinch down the front panel and line the zipper up, then zip the bag up.

Sorry your EVA deckpad isn't rebounding as quickly as usual. The only time you will see this is if the board is rolled very tightly for long periods of time, especially when opened for the first time since the board has had extra packaging protecting it in shipping and handling.

The good news is that this does go away. Inflate it to full pressure and give it a few days to work itself out. Inflating to full pressure causes the deckpad to stretch out a bit more since the PVC underneath is more taught under pressure. Massaging the areas with the indentations with your fingers can help a little bit as well.

This is normal for inflatable paddleboards. You'll notice looking at the bottom of your board that there are a bunch of dots lined up into rows. These are the ends of the stitches that hold the top of the board to the bottom of the board and give the board its shape - these are called "drop stitches." You'll notice that the approximate location of this “bubble” is opposite your air valve. When they install the air valve at the factory, they have to cut a bit of the drop stitch out of the way. This creates a small area where the bottom of the board can't be stitched to the top of the board, which creates this “bubble.” You see it on all of our boards, its nothing to worry about!

The ideal scenario is that the board is stored inflated at roughly half pressure (4-6 PSI) in a cool place that does not have exposure to large temperature changes or direct sunlight. The boards are least susceptible to damage when the air pressure inside of the chamber is greater than the air pressure on the outside of the board.

If you don't have the luxury of enough space to store the board inflated, the next ideal scenario is to deflate the board and store it loosely rolled with the valve pin up and cap on. “Loosely rolled" means that there is enough space in between each layer of the board roll that you can fit your arm in between. This will make sure that you aren't over-flexing/creasing the sidewall material and possibly creating weak points in seams.

The boards are very susceptible to damage when deflated. Dragging, even the slightest bit on semi-abrasive surfaces like concrete or asphalt, can cause major damage to sidewalls where the material is folded. This isn't an issue when the board is inflated. The reason you want to make sure that your valve is sealed is because the only opportunity for water (humidity) to make its way into the inner chamber is when the board is deflated. If storing in an area that can reach below freezing temperatures, this can be a problem due to the expansion of water when it freezes.

The HOSS and STRAIGHT UP ship as complete kits that include a 3-piece LeverLock paddle, pump, fins, repair kit, and carry bag. All other boards include the pump, fins, repair kit, and carry bag, with PADDLES sold separately so you can pick the right one for your paddling.

A quick starting point: stand the paddle upright in front of you, reach your arm straight overhead, and set the T-grip so your wrist rests on top of the handle. Size shorter for surfing and river play, longer for touring and flatwater cruising. For the complete modern method, read our PADDLE SIZING GUIDE.

Yes, always paddle with a leash. On flatwater, a leash keeps your board with you in wind and current. On rivers, only a QUICK-RELEASE LEASH worn on your body is safe. Never attach any leash to your leg on moving water, and always wear a PFD.

Fin screws can be found in one of two places: attached to the fin itself or your repair kit (orange cylinder located within your bag). If you do not see it in either place, please contact Customer Service immediately.

First, be sure that your GRUB SCREWS are backed out of the fin box so that the do not obstruct the fin sliding into the channels.

Second, line the tabs on the bottom of the FIN up with the two channels that are shaped just like them on the finbox. Push the FIN into the finbox until the fin is flush with the finbox. Once you’ve done this, you’ll notice that the front of the fin sticks out ahead of the finbox a bit. Firmly grab the fin and push backwards towards the back of the finbox. You will feel increasing resistance, then the tabs on the fin will click into place in locking channels in the finbox.

Lastly, secure your fin using a grub screw on each side. For fins with click tabs, two grub screws are sufficient to secure the fin. If you are using Hala’s LOW-PRO RIVER FINS that do not have click tabs, use four grub screws to secure the fin.

If your click fin fell off in flatwater, it probably means one of two things: either the fin wasn’t pushed back into its “clicked” position, or the GRUB SCREWS were not screwed in enough. GUMMY CLICK FINS, even when installed correctly, can still come out if the board is dragged or catches hard on a rock underwater. Be aware of this when paddling shallow water, or when you are pulling your board up on shore.

Fixed fins can be bent when you first open the box. Chances are, your board has been rolled up for several months, and tightly packaged for protection during shipping. While we do use protectors to keep the fins as straight as possible, they may be curled when you first pull the board out of the packaging, or if it's been rolled tightly for storage. This can be easily fixed at home and is nothing to be concerned about. The plastic fins can be manipulated back to the correct shape just by bending them back the opposite direction from how they are curled. If you have a hairdryer, using one to warm up the fin before manipulating it can accelerate this process.

Typically, all you need to do is wake your gauge up. Here is a SHORT VIDEO to help you along.

If waking your gauge up does not fix the issue, the most likely reason that your gauge is not moving is that your board is not at its minimum listed pressure yet (most of our gauges start around 7 psi). 15 psi is always way more pressure than we think, so just keep pumping and eventually you will get to that 7 psi and the gauge will give you an accurate measurement from there on out.

For reference--a fairly strong and persistent pumper will take at least 15 minutes to get a board inflated up to the recommended 15 psi.

Yes. Demo and closeout boards are posted to our CLOSEOUT & DEMO GEAR collection as they become available, typically as seasons wind down. Sign up for our newsletter to be the first to know when new closeout gear drops.

All boards and products are designed and tested in Steamboat Springs, Colorado.

We always recommend trying a board before you buy. Many of our authorized DEALERS offer Hala SUP demos; call the store closest to you and ask. You can also demo our boards at a Hala Gear EVENT near you. Not sure which board fits you? Take our BOARD FINDER QUIZ.

Hala boards are safe and durable enough to have dogs tag along. Even if your pup can swim, we always encourage a properly fitted CFD.

Absolutely. The RADO and RADITO are our go-to fishing platforms: stable, wide decks with plenty of rigging points for gear and coolers. Browse our FISHING BOARDS or read the SUP FISHING GUIDE to get set up.

Boards that use a KAYAK SEAT have four centrally located D-rings or soft rigging patches on the deck. The seat attaches using four clips: the clips from the top of the seat connect to the front loops, and the clips from the bottom secure to the rear loops. In the current lineup, the RADO, RADITO, HOSS, and STRAIGHT UP support the kayak seat. The ATCHA 96 and ATCHA 86 do not have kayak-seat rigging.